A Weekend Getaway on the Green Hills of Thandaung Gyi
Thuzar Winn
March, 2018 This is the place where you can enjoy a lot of scenic views and mountainous landscapes even for those with limited time and budget. For our long-overdue reunion trip at the end of 2017, we – a group of female friends who have known each other since their university days - finally decided on Thandaung Gyi not only because of its close proximity to Yangon by car but because it was also highly recommended by some local friends for its stunning scenery created by the valleys and heights around the Bago Yoma, one of Myanmar’s rich mountain ranges with monsoon forests. This hidden treasure in northern Kayin (Karen) State used to be part of the battleground between Myanmar Army and Karen insurgents, and has recently become a safe zone opened to all travellers along with the peace agreement. We managed to hit Yangon-Mandalay Highway just before 7 o’clock in the morning. The smooth and clear road took us about two hours to reach Taungoo, the biggest town of the region where we had a break over a quick breakfast. The next town is Thandaung which is also called New Thandaung developed in the recent years when the administration was moved there from the old hilltop town, Thandaung Gyi, due to its difficult location. |
When passing Thandaung, we stopped by a picnic spot called Pa-thi Chaung, which is a mountain stream that flows into the well-known Sittaung River near Taungoo. We refreshed ourselves with lots of fun in the cascades of crystal clear water and made adventurous photos on huge grey rocks.From Thandaung which is at the foothill of Eastern Yoma, the road (roughly 23 kilometres) snakes up the hills through lush monsoon forests all the way to Thandaung Gyi, Great Iron Hill/Mountain, as can be translated literally. Our driver managed to do this part in an hour and a half passing a few vistas with breath-taking views.
Around the noon of the Karen New Year day (18 December), we reached our destination, the peaceful scenic town atop the Bwihikho (also called Dawparkho) mountain range, of which the highest point is about 4800 feet above sea level. Thandaung Gyi was once a colonial hill station (like the more famous Pyin Oo Lwin near Mandalay) for the British colonial elite to seek refuge in the cool and fresh hilly resorts escaping the hot and humid months of the lowlands. There are still some remaining structures of the colonial time like “Old Fort” and “Tea Factory” which are among the sites for tourists.
Even our B & B, “I Wish”, is part of the history as its main building was built in 1912 and the father of the previous owner (a Karen family) bought the property in 1933 when it was sold at auction. The highlight of ‘I Wish’ is its location on a ridge with nice views of the valley and the hills opposite although room facilities are still to be improved. We nevertheless enjoyed the meals there, especially “Tarlepaw” (the famous Kayin/Karen traditional thick soup) prepared by Amoe (the Karen word for ‘mother’) as we addressed that Karen lady with a hearty smile on her kind and amiable face.
Around the noon of the Karen New Year day (18 December), we reached our destination, the peaceful scenic town atop the Bwihikho (also called Dawparkho) mountain range, of which the highest point is about 4800 feet above sea level. Thandaung Gyi was once a colonial hill station (like the more famous Pyin Oo Lwin near Mandalay) for the British colonial elite to seek refuge in the cool and fresh hilly resorts escaping the hot and humid months of the lowlands. There are still some remaining structures of the colonial time like “Old Fort” and “Tea Factory” which are among the sites for tourists.
Even our B & B, “I Wish”, is part of the history as its main building was built in 1912 and the father of the previous owner (a Karen family) bought the property in 1933 when it was sold at auction. The highlight of ‘I Wish’ is its location on a ridge with nice views of the valley and the hills opposite although room facilities are still to be improved. We nevertheless enjoyed the meals there, especially “Tarlepaw” (the famous Kayin/Karen traditional thick soup) prepared by Amoe (the Karen word for ‘mother’) as we addressed that Karen lady with a hearty smile on her kind and amiable face.
The most memorable part of our stay in Thandaung Gyi was our visit to the hills nearby. First to the best-known Naw Bu Baw Prayer Mountain which was named after the legendary Princess Naw Bu Baw. We were fascinated and touched by the poignant story of Naw Bu Baw who left her home, the sea, and came to stay in the mountains to be with her loving husband, the prince of the mountainous region, but just ended up being put on trial on the mountain peak and killed up there as she was accused of being a witch for owning a magic comb and of being responsible for her husband’s death in battle.
On the fresh and sunny morning of December, we were counting the 374 steps that took us to the top of Naw Bu Baw still musing over the sad folk tale while marvelling at the enchanting greenery all around. Along the way are quite a number of small prayer chapels in various styles including the one in the shape of two praying hands! The peak of Naw Bu Baw is crowned with a huge cross erected next to a boat-shaped chapel depicting ‘Noah’s Ark’ in the bible, where we saw a few Kayin pilgrims praying and doing their rituals peacefully.
We also observed a small blue mark that indicates the rock cavern where the hapless princess was imprisoned and left to be devoured by evil spirits. We were mesmerized by the amazing views of forest-covered hills in all directions, which are believed to be the territory of the spirits of Naw Bu Baw and her husband still roaming and guarding the region together. The hill opposite Naw Bu Baw (named Kayin New Year Mountain) is another religious site for Kayin Christians, topped with the cave of Marie and the statue of Jesus on the white post. We enjoyed the easy walk up to the top which was even more tranquil and placid only with the sounds of a fresh breeze and a few singing birds. We were then rewarded with the complete sight of the other hill (Naw Bu Baw Mountain, of course), which generously offered stunning backgrounds in our group photographs.
Our next tour of the day was to the site of the two massive Buddha images, brightly lit up in the twilight of the misty December evening. We could not stop gazing at the sunset into the colourful clouds drifting along the emerald mountain tops of the Kayin State. After paying homage to the peacefully smiling lying Buddha, we walked up another small hill towards the sitting Buddha that seemed to be looking down the hill and towering over the surrounding vicinity. The whole setting was filled with peace and serenity. The two huge golden-robed statues and gilded stupas around them spreading their amber glow among lush and dark green hills made a picturesque scene that would be dwelling in our memory for a long time.
We also observed a small blue mark that indicates the rock cavern where the hapless princess was imprisoned and left to be devoured by evil spirits. We were mesmerized by the amazing views of forest-covered hills in all directions, which are believed to be the territory of the spirits of Naw Bu Baw and her husband still roaming and guarding the region together. The hill opposite Naw Bu Baw (named Kayin New Year Mountain) is another religious site for Kayin Christians, topped with the cave of Marie and the statue of Jesus on the white post. We enjoyed the easy walk up to the top which was even more tranquil and placid only with the sounds of a fresh breeze and a few singing birds. We were then rewarded with the complete sight of the other hill (Naw Bu Baw Mountain, of course), which generously offered stunning backgrounds in our group photographs.
Our next tour of the day was to the site of the two massive Buddha images, brightly lit up in the twilight of the misty December evening. We could not stop gazing at the sunset into the colourful clouds drifting along the emerald mountain tops of the Kayin State. After paying homage to the peacefully smiling lying Buddha, we walked up another small hill towards the sitting Buddha that seemed to be looking down the hill and towering over the surrounding vicinity. The whole setting was filled with peace and serenity. The two huge golden-robed statues and gilded stupas around them spreading their amber glow among lush and dark green hills made a picturesque scene that would be dwelling in our memory for a long time.
Tips for our fellow travellers
- To pass through the checkpoints without any hassles, make sure you carry necessary documents like your identity card (for local tourists), your passport, visa and the permission issued by authorities for the overnight stay in Thandaung Gyi (for foreign tourists).
- Accommodation in Thandaung Gyi is not really expensive as there are a few B & Bs and guest houses run by the locals but be prepared to tolerate basic facilities. You can also stay at a decent hotel in Taungoo and drive to the sights of Thandaung Gyi starting very early in the mornings.
- The only means of transport to the resort is by road (roughly 4 or 5 hours) and it is more convenient to rent a car rather than take a bus. For a foreign tourist your travel agent should normally be able to arrange the car rental for you, which is still much easier and cheaper than booking a domestic flight when going to a place like Pyin Oo Lwin or Inle Lake.
- The place offers plenty of sightseeing and hiking possibilities depending on how much time you have.
- Around Thandaung you can observe the slopes of lavish tea plantations that produce some of the best tea leaves of Southeast Asia. And don’t forget to stop by a few small vendors in town and support their local products like tea, coffee, honey, handwoven Karen fabrics etc.
- If you want to take a challenge beyond easy forest trails and if you also have enough time, try a good full day hike (with a local guide) to the waterfall and hot spring at Taung Pyar Gyi to experience a more sporty adventure while savouring wilder scenery.
- You can also visit the following sites in case you would like more detailed information about Thandaung Gyi.